The Epic Saga of Being Trapped in a Department Store

When you travel with x number of female companions, you will spend x-squared amount of hours in a store waiting for them to try on stuff. The following takes place between the years 1998 and 2010:


:)



In all honesty, we had a great group to travel with. We were in that store for all of 10 minutes. I just thought this would be funny

Wait, you're sure we're not back in Wisconsin?

This weekend's selected adventure was to the northern city of Bologna and close by Parma. The rationale was to save the "warm weather" locations (ie Cinque Terre, Genoa) for warmer months. Not a bad idea, but when you go to cold weather towns in the middle of January, it's really cold. Friday morning's train ride took us through a jagged valley full of long tunnels for the train to narrowly snake through. After pulling out of one tunnel, I thought I had returned to Wisconsin. There was snow everywhere! And when we got off the train... a balmy 20 degrees (which I'll take over the -20 they're experiencing in Appleton right now!) The cold wasn't the first parallel between these towns and my home... more on that later.

Bologna is especially known for its university, its food, its museums, and the vibrant nightlife. Rather than pick one of those great aspects to focus on, our group decided to hit all of them. After visits to the Medieval Museum and the Archaeological Museum, we made our way through a jungle of discount-promising department stores towards the center of town. Right in the middle of Bologna (directly adjacent to a McDonald's) are two very unique towers, one of which has a substantial lean to the right. The lean is even greater than that of the famous "Leaning Tower" in Pisa. I'm guessing it leans more because no tourists ever come to Bologna, and if they do, they certainly don't try to hold up the tower in cute cliche photographs. The legend states that Bologna was once home to 190 towers, similar to San Gimignano. Today, roughly 14 towers stand within the old city.



A few lessons I learned over the course of our day in Bologna:
1) There are no bathrooms in Italy. Anywhere.
2) There are no bubblers in Italy. Where can I get my daily fix of bubbles? They seem to frown upon people who tried to drink from the Neptune fountain...



3) Restaurants in Italy OPEN at 8 pm. If you're hungry before this, you have two options: Cry, or go to McDonalds and eat a Big Mac. Though the first option was tempting, that Big Mac was one of the most satisfying sandwhiches I've had in Italy.
4) Despite what travelers in your group may have heard about the food in Spain, the bread they give you with Dinner is indeed included in the price of the bill
5) Nowhere takes credit cards anymore. Cash is the new Visa.

After walking throughout the town, taking in more breathtaking churches, the girls we were with of course had to shop. Now, every store in Italy right now is adorned with a bright red sign reading "SALDI!" January is the big shopping month here- so all the fashionable crap is on sale (It really is crap- their idea of XXL sweaters wouldn't pass for a medium in the US). Anyway, I thought I'd never get out of these stores. Dante Alghieri described Hell as a series of seven circles of torment with Lucifer and Judas chillin' in the middle. In the event that I'm sent to hell (likely for voting for Obama or coveting those Pogs in 1994), it will be one of those department stores. I will see a beautiful, historically significant church on the horizon, with an enoteca on one side and a pasticerria on the other. But I'll be forced to rummage through layers of Italian shiny, puffy purple men's jackets.

For dinner, we asked for directions. Smart move, I'd say. But clearly there were some communication issues. We had asked for pasta, but were directed to the winery adjacent to the city butcher's shop. Though a plate of salami, ham, and cheese sounded quite yummy (I really need to invest in a thesaurus...), we wanted something more "Bolognese." Thankfully, there was a fantastic local place just down the road. We were without a doubt the only Americans within several miles of that restaurant. The waiter was very sympathetic to our Italian 101 speaking deficiencies (it's tough to order pasta when the only thing you can say is "Il mio compleanno e il sette gennaio."), and he recommended a fantastic ravioli dish, featuring fresh bruccioto and feta:





Following an unforgettable dinner, we walked to nearby Via Zamboni, the home of the University of Bologna. The U is the oldest college in the western wold. Today, the whole city takes on a college town feel, with students making up a large slice of the Bolognese population. Interspersed among libraries, bookstores, lecture halls, and museums are vibrant bars and nightclubs, judged by many to be the finest in all of Italy. We spent awhile in an Irish Pub (I don't know if I've been to a bar here that wasn't an Irish Pub), which felt a lot like the Great Dane back home in Madison. Walking back to the hotel on Via Zamboni, I almost felt back home in Madison.

Here are a few pictures of the Bologna campus:





This morning, following a free breakfast at the hotel (what a deal!), we boarded busses for Parma. Not knowing anything about Parma, I wasn't sure what to expect. I had heard that it was the birthplace of Parmasean cheese, so I expected every storefront to be laden with cheesewheels and various other fromages.

Not the case.

Parma is a very eloquent, wealthy city, situated on a river bank, full of parks, beautiful walkways, and purse-inhabiting dogs. The cathedral of Parma, which boasts an eclectic collection of Renaissance art dating from the post-Byzantine era to the 16th century, is one of the more visually striking places I've seen so far. The ascent to paradise that is painted on the dome's interior portrays dimensionality in such a way that one literally feels immersed in the rising.

After visiting the churches, we ended up on an hour journey through the town of Parma, trying to find a "reasonably priced" lunch. Not easy to do in one of Italy's richest towns. We stumbled on a restaurant in Parma's largest piazza, thinking the menu carried the local pasta delicacies that some of us sought. When the food turned out to be highly mediocre, we left scratching our heads. It wasn't until after a trip to the upstairs restroom that we realized that we were not at an Italian bistro, but a sushi bar, specializing in various types of raw fish and seaweed. I'm just throwing this out there: If I owned a sushi restaurant, I wouldn't give it an obviously Italian name. I would also refrain from Italian deco. Just a thought.





Perhaps my favorite moment of the day, besides purchasing a monstrous hunk of Parmagiano-Reggiana cheese, was hearing a favorite tune coming from a local musician. I don't know if he saw my Wisconsin hat (doubtful he could recognize the motion W from a distance of 200 feet), or if he saw a large group of Americans clearly of German origin. Whatever his reasons, this man, sitting on a stool outside an elegant cafe, rolled out the barrel with his accordion. And I don't mean just the chorus- he recited the whole song, as played by the UW Marching Band. Cheese, bars, university, roll out the barrel, snow on the ground... I must have been in Madison this weekend!

Bravo Bene, Mange Dormir: The Opera L'Italiana in Algieri

Last night was the villa's night out at the opera. After scarfing down a dinner, we boarded the 7pm train into Florence. It was a very nervous train ride, since the ticket validator had recently broken. If the Italian train officials see you on the train without a validated ticket, its a huge fine, regardless of the strength of your case. Anyway, they weren't there, so we got off safely.

Arriving well before the opera began, many of us headed across the street to a local caffe where I enjoyed a dish of tiramisu. I'm trying to decide what is better, tiramisu or tiramisu gelatto. They each have their strengths. Right now I think the gelatto might actually better. That's definitely the case with chocolate mousse.

The opera began, and of course, it was in Italian. The opera was Rossini's famous "L'Italiana in Algeri," a comedy about an African king who kidnaps an italian woman. Here is what I think happened:

The king of the oompa-loompas, who also happened to be the sultan from Aladdin (whose pet was Simba from the Lion King), was bored with his wife, who looked like peach from Mario Brothers (all her servants looked like that mushroom guy from Mario... I guess Mario is an Italian name right?). So, she tries to marry her off to one of his slaves, who happens to be an Italian guy. Searching for a new wife, the sultan from Aladdin gets his buddies to go to Italy and kidnap a woman in a wedding dress, which of course they do. However, they also bring back her uncle, who looks just like Willie Wonka (do you see the connection yet?). Willie Wonka I guess was also her lover, that part of the show went way over my head.

But he wasn't her real lover, her real lover was the prisoner of the sultan. The second act of the show is about their attempts at escaping back to Italy together, leaving the sultan in Algeri. In my favorite scene of the performance, the Italians dance around with balloons shaped like Italy, ride on a giant cannon in the shape of a wine bottle, and wave a giant Italian flag around. Their plan is brilliant: feed their captor Italian food, and convince him that Italian people only eat and sleep. Of course, this sultan is an intelligent man, so he falls for it (I would have too). They begin shoveling massive quantities of Italian cuisine in his face.
While he is eating, a ship magically shows up. They get on this ship and sail back to Italy.

At least, that's what I thought happened, though I was likely very wrong. Nevertheless, I really enjoyed the experience. My favorite part was just listening to the orchestra- especially their intonation. Sounded just beautiful. Apparently the overture from this opera is one of the more famous orchestral pieces.

So a fantastic night of cultural enrichment. Planning on heading to Bologna and Parma this weekend, with a possible Sunday day trip to Perugia!

Saint Jimmy Johnson/San Jimmy Johns-o/ The correct spelling is... San Gimignano

Today began almost identical to yesterday, by boarding the train for Santa Maria Novella at 9am. When we got to the station, we searched out the Siena bus company, and purchased tickets to the hill town of San Gimignano!

The town itself is in the middle of nowhere. However, this makes for an incredibly scenic drive in through rolling hills, past hordes of cyclists, and right through the heart of wine country. I noticed the altitude increasing as we pulled in to town by the way my ears were popping- and by the sudden temperature drop when I stepped out of the bus.

There are roughly six or seven roads that run throughout the city. Each passes giant medieval piazzas that feature roman cisterns- wells that have operated and brought fresh water to the city since the era of the Caesars. The obvious feature of the town is it's "sky scrapers." People come from around the world to take pictures with these enormous 12th century towers that seem to rise in to the air out of nowhere. We climbed the largest one, "Torre Grosse," located at the Palazzo Communale (or old city hall). Like most towers or high rises in Italy, the climb was narrow and constricting, and I got stuck several times (attempting to make a resolution to lay off the gelatto--- not gonna happen!). The view from the top was arguably the most striking in Tuscany. Since there is nothing around the town for miles, you can look out over rolling hills and lush fields and see the towns off in the distance. You can even make out the mountains that form Florence's valley.





Of the 72 towers that once stood in this town that spans approximately 2 miles, there are only about 14 that still remain. I read that it was once possible to cross the entire town by walking on top of the towers. The initial structures were built for defensive purposes- to protect the Guelph city from Ghibbeline invaders. The rest were built by patriarchs of the region's richest families- whose big egos led them to make even bigger towers.

After climbing to the tower, we had lunch in a cafe. With the sun pouring down on the medieval piazza, it could not have been a more perfect and relaxing atmosphere. The local wine is Verrancia San Gimignano, a variety of white that is in the exact center between bitter and sweet whites. Essentially, it would be impossible not to enjoy this wine. As I ordered the bottle for our table, I was the first to "taste" it. I wasn't aware of the wine etiquette in Italy. The waiter pours whoever ordered a taste; they taste the wine and if they like it, the waiter will serve everyone starting with the first woman to his left. I also learned that it is poor form to hold a glass of white by the glass, instead it must be done with the stem so that the wine won't overheat. SOPHISTICATION!

After lunch, we took a little hike to what we thought said medieval fountain. I think it must have been a medieval bath or possibly a well... This is what we found after following these signs in to the middle of nowhere:



We also found a beautiful hiking trail that surrounds the entire town. Though not marked by any signs or mentioned by any guidebooks, this trail was my favorite part of the town. The whole trail was a panoramic outlook, overlooking centuries old villas and vineyards. Here's a few pictures from the trail:




After walking back in to town to grab some gelatto and some souvenir bottles of wine, we boarded a bus that was overflowing with tourists, locals, and Italian middle schoolers. I literally had no room on the bus- my face was shoved in to some one's arm pit, and my arm pit was flush against someone's face. Beautiful. It was very funny to hear all the Italian kids ask the bus driver to stop (they yell PROSSIMA!!!!!!). Since they all were getting off at the same stop, they took turns yelling Prossima for several minutes. It was quite funny. Speaking of Italian middle schoolers, I got an internship teaching English at Sesto's Middle School- I start a week from Wednesday!

Should be a terrific week coming up- going to the pub tomorrow night to watch NFL games, opera tuesday night!

Bunoa Sera!

It's funny, because it leans. And it's not supposed to. Aha!

Today was yet another epic journey through Tuscany to two very different towns. Pisa, a touristy and otherwise very urbanized town, followed by Lucca, a hip town that maintains its laid back medieval feel with the help of the colossal walls that still stand around the city.

We began the day by taking the 1 hour train ride from Firenze to Pisa. The train actually drops you off about 2 miles from where everything is in Pisa... but we enjoyed our walk through the streets, especially marveling at another Arno River crossing.



After crossing the Arno, we continued our journey through the streets of Pisa. On this day, I looked even more like a tourist than normal, thanks to my handy blue backpack I brought along. Though it's meant for long trips with lots of luggage, I used it today to tout our lunches and extra jackets around. Amazingly, the backpack doesn't weigh me down thanks to its sleek design. Or maybe because I possess superhuman strength. But, given the amount of gelatto I've been eating on this trip, I'd say it's probably the former.

When we arrived in Pisa (where there is a large, somewhat tilted white tower in case you didn't know), we saw many tourists waving their arms frantically in the air. I was perplexed by this at first, and began to ask around about this mythical tower dance. See the below:





Meagan here thought these people were flirting with the tower... And this woman was waving at the tower like she was riding in a parade:





However, it took my ingenuity to realize that we were actually in grave danger. The tower was about to come to life and force us to buy cheap souvenirs such as Pisa boxershorts and tower shot glasses! So quickly, I did what any self-respecting man would do... and I pummeled that tower in to the ground!



After taking several touristy photos, we promenaded around the park that the cathedral, baptistry, and leaning tower are located in. Overall, Pisa is strikingly beautiful. Yes, there are kitchy souvenirs and tourists everywhere, but it is certainly a must see for anyone in this part of Italy. Here's a picture of our group of sojourners from today in front of Pisa:



After Pisa, we boarded the train once again for a strikingly beautiful ride through the Tuscan countryside, a place I can never grow weary of. Past snow-capped peaks, symmetric olive groves, and gaudy hilltop villas, the train chugged along until we reached Lucca. Lucca is a medieval town that has never abandoned its large city walls from the 12th century. Rather, it has embraced them as central to its town identity- and put a large park and path all along the top. This wall is so enormous that you can bike all the way around it, while admiring the gothic churches and distant mountains. Another perk, it's only 2 euros to rent a bike for an hour!




After we returned our bikes, we picked up some gelatto for the road. Mine was "chocolate mousse" flavored, though flavoring was an inaccurate term. This must have actually been chocolate mousse. The creamy, rich, milky sensation of that gelatto after such a relaxing ride on una bicicletta made for a great ending to the day.

But there's more! On our way back, we expected to be going all the way back to Santa Maria Novella, the Florence train station. Instead, the train pulled in to the Sesto train station, just a few blocks from where we live. So we made it back to the Villa, even in time for dinner... which was a delicious blend of eggplant, pesto noodles, fresh bread, and shrimp rissoto tonight, in case you were wondering!

Off to bed... More adventures await tomorrow in the medieval town of San (can't spell this yet...) Giononmo?

Arrivederci!

Oh look, a church!

Between my first taste of italian cheesecake and some more romps through the mountains, it's been pretty relaxed these last few days. This morning, those of us in Mariotti's art history class got up early to go downtown. We visited two places. First was Palazzo Davanzati, a gothic palace built in the 13th century for the Davanzati family. Today, the palace is a museum displaying life in a medieval home. I particularly enjoyed all the defensive mechanisms designed in the buildings- a double layer of huge wood doors, holes in the ceiling to throw rocks on people's head, and trap doors to escape (with openings to throw hot lead on people's faces). All of these were necessary in the 13th century palace to defend from street fighting aristocratic families, like the Montigues and the Capulets. Often, the brawls in the street were between the Guelphs and the Ghibbelines, or those who were loyal to the Holy Roman Empire and those who were loyal to the pope. Imagine a horde of angry libertarians coming at your house with battering rams, torches, and crossbows....

Another interesting aspect of the museum was the indoor plumbing. This palace was clearly one of the wealthiest palaces in the city, as evidenced by the large drain on the floor which emptied both roof water and sewage in to the tunnels below. According to our world renowned art history professor, the palace also included one of the first bathrooms... "in the history of bathrooms." In addition to the illustrious johns, the walls were lushly decorated with painted on tapestries. Yes, that's right, the walls were painted to make it look like there were tapestries- Since these decorations were so expensive, even the wealthiest Florentine families had to resort to the imitation brand, or, the Steve and Barry's of the tapistry world.

After the palace came a visit to the Bascillica of Santa Croce, a franciscan church with famous paintings by Giotto and his pupils. We didn't have too much time so we rushed by Gailileo and Michaelangelo's tombs (they're not really important anyway) to see many of the paintings. The church itself was designed by Arnolfo di Cambrio, one of the bigger names in 13th century Florentine art and architecture (which is why it looks like the Cathedral of Florence, which he also designed).

Another interesting feature of the church was the tombs on the floor- you literally cannot step anywhere without trampling someone's headstone. So sorry, Medici and Bardi families. Though you were the wealthiest and most powerful bankers in the world, I stomped all over you today (respectively, of course).

This afternoon featured yet another run into the mountains- my endurance is building up daily. On the way back, an Italian woman asked me for directions somewhere. Not understanding much of what she said to me, I replied "non capisco. Sono Americano. Mi dispiache." Thank you first week of Italian 101!

Off to hear some "American Music" at a bar in Florence... big day in Pisa and Lucca tomorrow! Arrivederci!

First, a Few Videos

I know I've neglected to share enough videos on this site. With the sleek and slender usability of my Flip camera, I really need to pick up the slack in that department. Anyway, here are a few for now!



If this works, the above video is an aerial view of Florence shot from San Miniato al Monte--- sorry if it's shaky... my hands were freezing!



If this works, the above is either a video of us climbing a tower in Siena, or an aerial view of Siena from the top of the tower. We'll find out soon.



Finally, this is a video tour of our villa, taken on our first day. The area you are seeing is the Count's apartment... where the rich cats hung out. The student quarters are slightly less nice--- but only slightly.

LOST!

This morning I awoke to the sound of a relatively new alarm clock purchased last week at an electronics store in downtown Sesto. As I still have the sound of my previous alarm clock, which had stood by me faithfully for over 15 years, locked in my head, I was quite confused by what was waking me up. Apparently I turned on my phone and threw it across the room, then knocked everything off my night stand in an effort to quiet the madness. Well done, Ryan.

So I don't get lost again, I'm enclosing a map of Sesto Fiorentino above...

After the rude awakening, I took to the hills for another morning run. Feeling adventurous, I decided to boldly go where no American should ever go- through unknown winding mountain streets in a town where nobody speaks english. Needless to say, I got helplessly lost. I was hoping for a 20 minute jog, ended up being about a 50 minute run with a dead sprint at the end to make it back to catch the breakfast buffet just before it was put away (has Nutella on day old bread ever tasted so refreshing?)

A movie recommendation for the film buffs out there... "Open City "is the story of resistance to Fascist Italy during WWII. The plot follows a Catholic priest, who leads a group of boys reminiscent of the little rascals in varying sabotages. Though the end of the movie will rip your heart out and run it over with a bulldozer, the portrayal of the hardships of Fascist rule is frighteningly realistic. It's an especially significant film because it was made in the early 1950s- and was among the first films anywhere to portray the atrocities of Mussolini and Hitler's regimes.

Presently trying to plan spring break. They kick us out of the villa that week as to force us to travel/stimulate the economy. My initial plan of pitching a tent in the villa woods probably won't work, due to lack of a tent. So, I'm thinking Austria and Germany. Created a pretty mind blowing itinerary the other day... hoping to take the railroads across the continent throughout the rest of the semester!

I'd like to wish my friends back in Madison a happy first day of classes! I didn't even realize yesterday was Martin Luther King Day. Probably because I am in Italy, and I'm not sure anyone here has even heard of Dr. King. Nevertheless, have a smooth transition back in to the chaos that is a semester at Madison!

UPDATE: Just downloaded the theme songs for both the Godfather and The Sopranos. This will surely help in my quest for an in with Italian organized crime when I visit Naples. People always say I'm just like Tony Soprano....

Medieval State of Mind*

St. Catherine of Siena Dominican Church

Friday marked the beginning of the first real weekend here in Italy. With no Friday classes at the Villa, the group headed to nearby Siena, a town that remains medieval in every sense of the word. Siena is located roughly an hour and a half south of Florence, at a much higher elevation. As a result, the drive wound past Tuscan hills, snow-peaked mountains, and finely-aged chateaus.

After an hour and a half on the bus, we arrived in a parking lot, surrounded by an enormous wall dating back nearly a thousand years. As we parked the bus, I imagined 13th century Florentine soldiers under the command of the Medici wheeling catapults to where we now stood (and subsequently flinging dead donkeys and dung at their rival city).

The entrance to the city is marked by a tremendous Dominican church, dedicated to St. Catherine of Siena (Her skull is on display in the church in one of the side chapels. It was actually posthumously severed from the rest of her body which remains enshrined in Rome). St. Catherine is remembered today as a religious mystic, whose intense personable experiences with Christ included the stigmata (as depicted in many a portrait). One of the striking differences between this church and the cathedrals in Florence was the style of painting. Though many of the paintings came from the 14th and even 15th centuries, they remained very medieval, just one of the ways that the Sienese demonstrated their disdain for the Florentines.

After a tour of the church, we descended (literally) into the city down cobblestone roads adorned by tremendous medieval arches and crowded apartments. Many of these residences have not been altered for centuries, as a local ordinance forbids the renovation or remodeling of any building within the city walls.

The winding, narrow corridors of Siena

Now, I had done some reading about Siena's tremendous cathedral in a few of the art

history texts we have at the villa. But ultimately, nothing could prepare me for the splendor

possessed by this enormous structure. The church cuts deep in to the city's second of three hills.

At the bottom is the baptistry, and an excavated portion that existed prior to the building of the

grand cathedral, which had formerly housed all of the church's functions. In this excavation are

numerous frescoes, some of which have chipped away, but most of which are better intact than

frescoes that have been preserved over the years. Because of the innumerable tons of dirt deposited

in this portion, the frescoes have not been exposed to oxidation processes. I think I'll start randomly

digging in places in Italy, hoping to score a huge discovery such as this!

The main portion of the cathedral was decorated by the Pisanos, Niccola and Giovani. As

a result, there is tremendous continuity with the cathedral at Florence. Since there really are

no words to describe something as grand as this, I'll just post a few snapshots.

The Cathedral's interior. The black and white striping is significant of the division between the Guelphs (supporters of the Holy Roman Empire) and the Ghibbelines (supporters of the Papacy). This conflict divided Tuscany throughout the early Renaissance- with Siena typically supporting Rome.

A view of the Cathedral's colossal exterior. Notice the stained glass- an indication of French gothic influence, likely due to Giovani Pisano's contacts with French clergy and artists. The two massive stained glass windows are some of the main distinctions between the cathedrals of Siena and Florence.

Inside of the cathedral is a very famous puplit- sculpted by Nicola Pisano. The cathedral is

very significant to the Renaissance style because of the intense naturalistic detail, the careful

formation of human expression, and the relative crowding of stories and figures. I particularly

enjoyed the lion sculptures at the pulpit's bases- which depicted a Lion (Jesus) tearing into an

apocalyptic horsey. Neigh!

After a visit to the Cathedral museum (home of several very important paintings of the

Virgin Mary as depicted by the painter Duccio), we enjoyed packed lunches of paninis and

european candy bars--- the pigeons of the town certainly enjoyed feasting on the crumbs we

dropped! The afternoon brought a tour of the city hall and the paintings depicting good and

bad government- and of course, a tasty dish of Gelatto!

City Hall, home of the famous Council of 9, who presided over Renaissance Siena. Every year

in this square is a giant horse race between the 9 neighborhoods of Siena. Also of note is that this square

is considered the best preserved Medieval square in the world- nothing has changed in centuries!

After leaving Siena, the group traveled to a vineyard for a tour of the winery, villa, and of course, a delicious wine tasting of various types of Chianti Classico. It was a tremendous cultural experience- I learned how to go about tasting a wine for all the varieties of flavor.

I also picked up a bottle of their finest red for a housewarming gift for my family when they come to visit- looking forward to sipping a glass this March!

Chianti Classico at the wine tasting
My roommates at the vineyard's garden (Dan in the middle, Adam on the right)

The tranquility of a Tuscan sunset

Yesterday was another enjoyable day in Florence: Woke up for another 3 mile mountain jog, went to the Saturday market in Sesto, and took the noon train in to Florence. Got lost looking for a market, found the market, spoke italian with a very nice bakery owner. Ordered a 2 euro panini with some kind of meat I can't pronounce, and a cheese I've never heard of. Enjoyed the panini on the steps of San Francesco church, while evading hordes of attacking pidgeons. Purchased a AFC Fiorentina jersey, bought a cup of gelatto, didn't buy jewelry at the Ponte Vecchio. Took a walk on the river bank, followed a distant tower for a mile or two, and got a great view from where we were led. Walked back across the Arno, saw Michaelangelo's David, went to mass at the Duomo. Wondered if Pope Benedict is thinking of burning me at the stake for numerous heresies and frequent criticisms. Marveled at the beauty of the cathedral, and prayed for the victims of the Haitian earthquake. Returned to Sesto, got a beer at a bar packed with locals. Another day.

This morning we woke up for brunch and headed to the hills for a tour of a great hiking/running path. The walk took about an hour- though the way my legs feel right now it might as well have lasted all day! I look forward to taking my family up in to the mountains. That's the real Italy. It's also where Italian resistance fighters (including the Villa's garden) hid from the Fascists during WWII. We were going to go to Fiesole, a Roman/Etruscan village atop Florence, but it's cloudy and cold- so we wouldn't have been able to see much of the panoramic views of the city below. Tonight, heading back downtown to watch the Cowboys clobber that Brent guy I used to like.

Until next time... Arrivederci!

* I dedicate this post to the memory Ann Marie Debruin, who passed away yesterday of a heart attack at the age of 53. Mrs. Debruin was my freshman english teacher and remained a friend and mentor for years after I left her classroom. Of all the teachers I've ever had, Debruin remains the most influential. She taught me how to enjoy poetry, that Bruce is Boss, that Breakfast Club is one of the better comedies of the 1980s, that Romeo and Juliet isn't just for lovers and weiros.... and how to write. Hopefully, she forgives me for this sloppy blog post I threw together on a Sunday afternoon.

I'll never forget her quote about God:

"I'm not sure why this is.... I'll have to ask God when I meet her."

Into the Baptistry

So this morning began very early for me... because I still cannot sleep a full night in this country. I'm very much still on American time, and I'm trying as hard as I can to get over that. Hopefully the fatigue of a 2nd run in to the mountains (just ran about 5 k) will allow me to finally get more than 3 hours of sleep tonight! Anyway, once the rest of the villa woke up, we boarded the train to head downtown to the Baptistry at the Florence Cathedral.

The Baptistry was actually built before the cathedral... and you can really tell by looking at the art inside. I'll post some pictures of the interior up in a later post. It is very medieval, influenced by connections between Florentine business and the Byzantine empire. The interior is dedicated to John the Baptist- -- appropriate for a baptistry---- and features many pictures of John. Including many graphic pictures of his beheading. This city sure likes pictures of him getting his head whopped off and brought to Herod on a silver platter! Dante, author of the Divine Comedy, attended the baptistry throughout his life for mass. As a result, many of the inscriptions around the baptistry make their way in to his texts as quotations. Many of the mosaics serve as inspirations for Dante's conceptualizations of hell and the ascent in to paradise.

Following our private viewing of the baptistry, we got a good luck at Ghiberti's famous doors... a big favorite of mine! And a door that I don't hit my head on.. ah, another plus!

Tomorrow, we're venturing in to Siena. I'm looking forward to seeing the huge cathedral and the ridiculously ornate decoration... and learning some more about the beginnings of the renaissance style of art. I'm especially looking forward to tomorrow's wine tasting session. Tonight we may go downtown briefly... but I really need sleep. Hopefully, tonight's the night!

The Badgers won again last night... I watched the 2nd half, since I couldn't sleep anyway. Keep up the good work Red!

I'm going to attach some pictures of the villa here:

Random Pictures and Videos from Yesterday

The Cathedral and il Duomo
Entering Florence through the walls
Ponte Vecchio

My favorite picture from yesterday