The first impression that everyone has of Pompeii is of its size. The Roman Forum, which spans a few acres, pales in comparison to the enormous city of Pompeii which once housed 40,000 citizens within the walls. Even though excavations started over 150 years ago, over 30% of the city remains unearthed. Because the city was buried in heaps of volcanic ash, everything is very well preserved. The ash and pumice actually protected the city's remains from a slue of devastating earthquakes that hit the region following the 79, AD eruption of Pompeii. The ash also preserved much of the city's art- frescoes still adorn the atriums of the homes of the upper class, the religious centers still maintain their devotional art. The incredible preservation of the city, coupled with the art's resilience, creates an atmosphere of a real ancient town, not a tourist attraction in the middle of a sprawling urban area.
Our first stops on the walk through Pompeii included the Basilica and the Forum. The Basilica, home to the city's mercantile activities, is marked by monumental red granite pillars that once held colossal Roman arches. The building was once home to the department of justice- you can still see where the magistrates sat when court was still in session. This style of architecture would be highly influential for nearly all of Europe's great cathedrals.
The forum was the site of Pompeii's shops as well as several religious centers. Like most of Italy's grand piazzas, traffic was forbidden around the forum. This created a space in which politics could be debated, a space where politicians could pander for votes, and a space where the citizens could collectively panic when they saw a column of lava and ash coming to seal their doom.
After walking past rows of ancient houses (including the "Lupanare" or the city's main brothel), we arrived at the necropolis- Pompeii's graveyard. In the century before the eruption, citizens were cremated and placed in the necropolis under a commemorative bust, or, if they were wealthy and important, a large statue. Today, the big draw of the necropolis are the famous "bodies"- the group of preserved figures who attempted to flee the city when the volcanic barrage ensued. Today, plaster casts of their final poses are on display. That's how life works- one minute you're peacefully at work in your vineyard. The next moment, you're outrunning a volcano, and 2,000 years later your agony is a photo opportunity for tourists from around the world.
Directly adjacent to the necropolis is the "antiteatro." Unlike most of Italy's amphitheaters, this is very well preserved. The seats, the tunnels, and the surface are all still in tact. The field is accessible only through two doors. During gladiator battles, both would enter the "door of the living." Only one would leave that door after the battle, while the other was pulled through the "door of the dead."
Backtracking a bit, we arrived at the theater district, home to "teatro grande" and "teatro piccolo." Teatro grande, ironically, was closed for renovation. Both were used for dramas, poetry readings, and orations. The district is complete with a large forum for theatergoers to mingle during intermission- and pay 10 dollars for a quick cocktail or beer. Both theaters had a roof at one time to create better acoustics and prevent from rain. Both theaters also had a strict dividing line between the seats reserved for the patricians and the seats reserved for the classe media.
After another walk through the forum (seeing more preserved bodies along the way), we arrived at the Villa of Mysteries, an ancient building that was built outside the walls of the city. The "mystery" refers to a religious rite in which women would be initiated in to the cult of marriage. A well-preserved fresco depicts this process.
We spent the rest of the day wandering through the residential zones. We passed marble mosaics that read "beware of the dog." We philosophized beneath great pillars, and had our pictures taken not in places of significance, but in places where other tourists were clamoring for photos. We marveled at the best preserved Roman frescoes in the world, and dodged groups of American students visiting with their study abroad programs. Finally, we exited the ruins to enjoy some gelato at a gelateria that I suspect was ran by the mafia (why else would 3 men in suits be suspiciously counting reams of 50 euro bills in a smoke filled corner?)
That night, we ate pizza in Sorrento before retiring early to the hostel. After a long day of traveling, I was asleep by 10:30pm. I would need the rest for the next day's adventures.
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